Well, I’m way behind in my writing, but I’ve had a lot going on. I’m going to try to catch up with two posts this weekend, so this first one is just my trip to Xi’an last month. It was short-Jess and I took the fast train out Saturday morning and back Sunday night (about 6 hours each way). But I got to see a lot of the things I’d been wanting to. I tried a well-known noodle dish from Xian, biang biang mian, and it was delicious. The noodles are made fresh at the restaurant and huge-like eating lasagna noodles!
Jess showed me all her favorite places around Muslim street-it’s actually a maze of streets with hundreds of little shops and street vendors. Some amazing and unique foods! We sampled way too much…
Sunday morning I got up early to catch the bus to the Terracotta Warrior site before Jess and I caught the train back to Beijing. I’ve been wanting to see these for years and it was well worth waiting for. It was still early when I got there and there weren’t many people around. It was eerie though; thick fog everywhere. I was wandering down all these paths through the park and could hardly see in front of my face! I wasn’t expecting such a huge complex. Each different excavation pit has a building built over it, with a new mausoleum/museum, and gift shops in between. Pit #1 has the most figures excavated and it was pretty incredible to see:
That’s all for now. I have some more news to post tomorrow though!
I’m loving these blue skies and chilly mornings lately. It’s my favorite time of year.
I made a quick-and I do mean quick-visa run last weekend. Twenty-four hours in Busan, perfect for doing all my favorite relaxing things. I love exploring new places, but sometimes it’s nice to go see old friends:
This past week has been completely draining. Kevin, who’s three and really too young to be in our school, has made it his mission to destroy me I’m pretty sure. Every day, all day, temper tantrums, screaming, hitting, running around ripping everything off the walls. He nearly tore my hair out when I tried to stop him from hitting Siri with a chair one day. I feel so bad for the other kids because they’re being so good (most of the time) and they’re really patient with him. Sometimes he’ll be fine for an hour or two and we can actually get something done though. We’re learning about other cultures and since this month is Latin America we learned to salsa dance. They were so adorable! I don’t salsa dance myself; I just pulled up a how-to on YouTube and we tried to follow along. We’re not very good, but we had fun!
We’re also preparing for Halloween this week, so we had to “carve” some jack-o-lanterns. I love how individual they are:
This weekend Jess and I planned to go up to Fragrant Hills-the mountains on the outskirt of Beijing. This weekend and next are the best time to see the fall leaves. But traffic got horrific as we got closer to the park entrance and we had the cab driver drop us off so we could walk. Even then the street was gridlocked with people walking and tourist buses. So we detoured to the entrance of the Beijing Botanical Gardens instead, which turned out to be a good idea. It was way less crowded than Fragrant Hills would have been. I heard later it sold out about the time we would have arrived anyway. But the botanical gardens were amazing. There’s a huge conservatory in the middle but we skipped it and just enjoyed being outside. It was the perfect fall day. So. Many. COLORS! We had fun running around taking pictures for a few hours.
October 1st is China’s National Holiday; this year marks the 69th anniversary of the founding of the PRC. Every year, the entire country gets a week off to celebrate. Which sounds nice, right? But it’s the entire country. At the same time. And for many people it’s the only vacation time they have, so the result is millions of people trying to hit the same hundred or so tourist spots at the same time. It’s insanely crowded and horrifying. Beijing was fairly quiet for the first half of the week because most people leave the city to travel elsewhere. But then they come back…
Anyway, Jess and I stayed home, partly because we wanted to avoid the madness, mostly because we had no money to go anywhere. We managed to explore a bunch of new places though. And the weather was spectacularly clear and blue, just cool enough to be considered fall.
Otherwise, we were pretty much our tea-drinking, scrabble-playing, movie-binging, junk food-eating selves all week. It was kind of fun just being lazy.
I’ve got a lot of things left to cross off my Beijing bucket list before I leave China. I know I’ll be back to travel more at some point but I don’t know when. So I’ve just been trying to do as many new things as possible before I go.
Recently Jess and I tried this new whisky bar near our house. I’ve never actually tried drinking whisky or really straight alcohol at all but it wasn’t bad. Mostly we just enjoyed the atmosphere-it’s super quiet and relaxing. The bartender let us smell a bunch of different bottles and made recommendations for us to try.
Last week, my friend Carol got tickets to an NHL game. I’ve never watched hockey in my life so when she asked me to go I was all “Sure, why not?”. Carol’s Chinese but her new husband is Canadian and now she’s on a mission to learn how to be Canadian 🙂 Neither one of us knew anything about the game but since it was Calgary vs. Boston we decided she’d cheer for Canada and I would cheer for USA (who won, btw!). Mostly we just had fun people watching. The goal of playing in China was to get Chinese audiences interested in the game before the next Olympics come to Beijing, so the organizers made a point of explaining the rules first since a lot of the viewers were new to the game. Every time there was a goal or a penalty they would post an explanation of what was going on up on the screen, which was really helpful to us. All sporting events should do this-I might be able to follow them!
Then this weekend Jess and I took our apple booth money and went to Tianjin. Tianjin is not far from Beijing-only about half and hour by high-speed train. Actually it took longer to get to and from the train stations than to take the actual train. Tianjin is a major city in its own right though; established in the 15th century, it’s the fourth-largest city in China with 13 million people. It just sort of sprawls along the Hai River to the coast, running into the newer city of Binhai. The library we wanted to see is actually in Binhai but we enjoyed exploring both cities. We found this cute park close to our hotel. There’s actually a lake in the middle but you can’t see any water because it’s completely covered with lotuses-thick enough to walk on.
The cities seem distinctly different despite being so close together. A lot of the buildings in Tianjin and Binhai are more European than the traditional Chinese style of Beijing. In some ways they feel more modern. The people, not so much. We get stared at all the time in Beijing and have more or less become accustomed to it, annoying as it is. Beijing has thousands of foreigners though so we’re not really such a strange sight. Tianjin, though, was awful. People would stop and gawk at us constantly, old people, children, one girl, about seven, walked up to our table in the coffee shop and stood about six inches away, just staring. I wanted to leave my backpack in a locker instead of carrying it around the library. The lockers were automated; you scan a code with your WeChat (WeChat is basically the only app in China), pay with your phone, and the locker opens. The app was entirely in Chinese but not that difficult to figure out, just took a few minutes. The whole time we’re standing there trying to use the app, this family gathers around us and starts staring. When the locker finally popped open they all gasp and start oohing and aahing like they were watching some kind of performance. It’s enough to make me want to scream sometimes.
The library was spectacular though. It’s known for the giant atrium with a sculpted sphere in the center, surrounded by stairs lined with books. Well, pictures of books-the atrium wasn’t approved by officials to house actual books. But surrounding the atrium is a five story library that houses 1.2 million books and people can bring them down to read on the steps. There are also several quiet study rooms.
The ancient Culture Street in the center of Tianjin was an enjoyable way to spend a couple hours. To be honest, the street food may have been the biggest draw. Tianjin is home to my favorite street food-jingbing, an eggy crepe folded around a crispy wonton with spices and sauce.
After strolling around the culture street, we found the Tianjin Eye, a giant ferris wheel built atop one of the many bridges crisscrossing the river. It towers above everything around it and takes about half an hour to make a rotation. We were up higher than the apartment buildings surrounding us!
After dinner, we came back to take in the sunset views and see the riverfront all lit up at night.
Jess had read up on the nightlife and found that the Astor Hotel had a speakeasy type bar, called O’Hara’s, with drinks and jazz. It’s really tucked away so you have to ask away and the front desk clerk led us to a back hallway and showed us in. Their drinks were great and the atmosphere is cozy. We were too exhausted to stay and wait for the music to start but I want to go back, hopefully next month.
All in all, I’m mad I haven’t made time to go to Tianjin before now! It’s so close and such a nice change to be out of Beijing.
Last Friday night Jess’s school hosted a night fair; parents and staff could set up booths in the classrooms and parents and kids came to buy their homemade foods and crafts. Jess signed us up for an apple-themed booth and she made a bunch of applesauce and I made some individual apple pies and cheddar-apple muffins, and we went into business! We didn’t make a lot of money but we covered our costs and used the rest to book round-trip train tickets to Tianjin and hotel costs. We’re thinking about taking the show on the road and opening up a street-food cart to fund our travels (joking, joking). So keep an eye out for trip photos in a couple weeks!
Also just a few photos from our nursery rhyme lesson this week. We’re learning Humpty Dumpty so I decorated an egg-which I was quite proud of-then we incorporated some science and wrapped him up in tissues and marshmallows and balloons and threw him off the third floor balcony to see if he would break. In a surprising twist to the original story, he survived!
So Jess and I combined our birthday celebrations into one really fun weekend (our birthdays are two weeks apart). We kicked it off Friday night with some drinks on the outside patio at Blue Frog, one of our favorite restaurants, got massages, dinner at a tiny Japanese place where they wrap up your vegetables in bacon (really the only way veggies should be eaten) and booked a day trip to LongQingXia.
LongQingXia, or LongQing Gorge, is a couple hours’ bus ride out of the city center. It’s a man-made lake in the valley of the surrounding mountains. Beijing has been really hot, but the mountains were nice and cool; it actually felt like fall. The entrance opens into a little park where we wondered around and took pictures:
The path led us to a waterfall created by the dam above us. To the right, a massive dragon clung to the mountainside. It’s one of the things Longqing is known for-the dragon’s body conceals a series of escalators going up to the lake. It’s a pretty cool sight. To get up to the top of the dam we literally walked into the dragon’s mouth:
From the dock at the top of the stairs we took a boat further down the lake to a large park and wandered around for a while
Jess handed me her camera to get a picture, then happened to look up and notice the spiders above her:
After lunch, the ferry took us back to the main dock, where you can take a cable car up to the top of the mountain.
Once the cable cars brought us back to the top of the dam, we went down the slideway. They had toboggans that go down this zig-zag path to the park entrance area. We rode the flying swings amusement park ride, snacked, took the bus back to Beijing, then decided we’d done enough walking to justify dinner at The Cheesecake Factory. All in all, it was a great birthday weekend!
A little belated but I’m super busy these days. I don’t know what I’ll do when I’m done going to school and teaching. I’ve pretty much always done one or the other, or both. I realized I kind of like having two “New Years”. I mean, new school years are not so much fun to celebrate, but it is a nice chance to start fresh and do things differently. I got to pick out some new furnishings for our classroom this year and put up some new decorations.
The year has started off very slowly for me. I had one student the first week, two for most of the second, and now, almost a month in, I’m only up to five. We’re expecting about 3 more in the next couple weeks, and my Raina from last year will be back in October. A lot of small schools are struggling to get kids this year because some new international schools have opened and parents are obsessed with the big name schools. These parent…I have no words. I’m going to write in more detail later, but they go so far past helicopter parenting that I’ve invented a new phrase-mosquito moms. They buzz around no matter how many times we shoo them away, attempt to crawl up your nose, and I really want to slap them. They’re insane. My kids are cute though. It’s a younger group than I’m used to, mostly four-year-olds, which took some adjustment, but their English is better than many of my last year’s students’.
Otherwise, I’ve just been enjoying the unusually blue skies lately: