A little belated but I’m super busy these days. I don’t know what I’ll do when I’m done going to school and teaching. I’ve pretty much always done one or the other, or both. I realized I kind of like having two “New Years”. I mean, new school years are not so much fun to celebrate, but it is a nice chance to start fresh and do things differently. I got to pick out some new furnishings for our classroom this year and put up some new decorations.
The year has started off very slowly for me. I had one student the first week, two for most of the second, and now, almost a month in, I’m only up to five. We’re expecting about 3 more in the next couple weeks, and my Raina from last year will be back in October. A lot of small schools are struggling to get kids this year because some new international schools have opened and parents are obsessed with the big name schools. These parent…I have no words. I’m going to write in more detail later, but they go so far past helicopter parenting that I’ve invented a new phrase-mosquito moms. They buzz around no matter how many times we shoo them away, attempt to crawl up your nose, and I really want to slap them. They’re insane. My kids are cute though. It’s a younger group than I’m used to, mostly four-year-olds, which took some adjustment, but their English is better than many of my last year’s students’.
Otherwise, I’ve just been enjoying the unusually blue skies lately:
I was up bright and early Sunday to go explore Hoi An. Hoi An was once a busy trading port on the Thu Bon River and the river is still a big draw, with various tour boats and fishing boats everywhere. Tons of shops line both sides of the walk along the river and the whole place has such a cute, small-town feel; it was easy to walk everywhere. One of the things the city is known for is the tailor shops. There are more than 400 and they can make practically a whole new wardrobe overnight. One of my first stops Sunday morning was to Bebe’s, one of the best-known tailor shops. It was even more fun than shopping. You can look at pictures from their catalog or anywhere you find them, like Pinterest, and they’ll sketch out the items you like and make any changes you want, then you can pick from hundreds of fabrics. It’s relatively inexpensive but I never have money when I travel, so I only got one dress, but it was custom-made from Hoi An silk and still less than I would have spent walking into a shop at home and buying something similar. They had it finished 24 hours later so I could come back and try it on and the seamstress could make any adjustments. She finished the hem and it was ready to pick up Tuesday morning. I wish I could do all my shopping there! Afterwards, I just spent some time walking around the old town.
Monday morning I booked a tour/cooking class where we visited a local market, then took a boat downriver to Cam Thanh water coconut village. It’s a small fishing village at the edge of Hoi An. During wartime, soldiers and locals would hide here, but now they hive a thriving eco-tour business. From the large riverboat, we transferred to traditional woven basket boats, which were fun to float around in. Each boat had a local guide to row us around and show us how to weave grass, catch crabs and fish. I was in a boat boat with a girl named Haley from the U.K., and our guide was a sweet lady who must have been about 80. She spoke only a few words of English but would talk to us in Vietnamese and gestures, smiling the whole way. Her husband was in the boat rowing a couple ahead of us, and their son had his own boat as well.
After floating around for an hour or so, we were rowed over to a big open-air kitchen to prepare lunch. I liked the cooking class a lot. Sometimes, they are too touristy, more like demonstrations, but this one was really hands-on and the instructors knew a lot about the ingredient and could explain the technique. Hoi An is also known for its cuisine so it seemed like every restaurant in town offers cooking classes, but I would definitely recommend this one, especially since it includes the coconut boat tour.
When I got back, I rested up at my Airbnb and did some homework, then went out to see Hoi An at night, which was both wonderful and frustrating. The city was declared a UNESCO world heritage site in 1999 to try to protect its culture, but it appears to have done the opposite. The streets are busy enough during the day, and just about everything in the old town area is now a shop or restaurant, which is bad enough, but at night the area is just flooded with tourists. It’s sad to see. I still enjoyed seeing all the lanterns and the small boats going out on the river, but I think I would have enjoyed it a lot more 10 years ago.
That said, the view on the river is amazing. I tried to narrow down my photos but it was hard! I got there just before sunset and stood on the bridge (with about 400 other people) to watch it go down.
Evidence of environmentalism was everywhere. Recycling bins, recycled planters, like the ones below, were really common, restaurants and vendors are cutting back on disposable items. The place where I got a breakfast smoothie one day had hollow wooden straws instead of plastic. All the fishermen and tour guides had nets in their boats to nab any bits of floating trash they came across in the river or sea.
One question I’ve gotten more than once is how people act toward Americans, or were there still any signs of war. It seems that’s all Americans really know about Vietnam. It’s impossible to answer definitively; I only visited four cities and I certainly didn’t talk to every person in the country. I can only tell you what I saw and heard from others. I’m sure there are still people who hate us; I would, frankly. But I didn’t feel that at all. What I’ve read, what I had been told by other people I know who have been to Vietnam, is that Vietnamese people love Americans. I don’t know if I’d go so far, but I certainly found them all friendly and welcoming. (Of course, Vietnam now has a thriving tourism industry with Americans pouring money into it.) This article has a much more detailed perspective if anyone is interested. In general, they view us as just one more invader they conquered, the way they did China, Japan, France, and others. Others appreciate that we tried to help. There are likely as many opinions as there are Vietnamese people. Another factor is that many revere Ho Chi Minh, and took his words to heart when he told them to blame governments, not people, for their trouble. (Something we could all learn from right now.)
You don’t have to look far, though, to see that America has had a big impact on this small country. What we call the Vietnam War, they call the American War. On a tour of Hanoi, driving down the shaded road between Trúc Bạch Lake and the West Lake, the guide was sure to detail the account of John McCain crashing down in Trúc Bạch Lake and point out the small memorial of the event there. We went by Hoa Lo prison where the POWs were held. In souvenir shops there are t-shirts like this:
I found a vintage poster shop with replicas of propaganda ads from different eras. I just bought a few, but there were dozens and dozens featuring America, American soldiers, American presidents.
Everywhere I went, people would quote prices to me in USD. I find this completely useless since I now think in RMB, and I don’t even really do that when I travel. I exchange my cash, since my Chinese debit card doesn’t work outside China. I take the amount I have, divide it by how many days I’m staying in any given country, and that’s my daily allowance. I had roughly 1 million VND per day (about USD $44-a lot, compared to my usual budget; I probably could have gotten by with half) to spend. So shopkeepers waving me over to buy things, “Very cheap, only 5 US dollars”, meant nothing to me. I had to keep asking people to tell me the price in VND, which confused them. They assume all Americans must have money and simply didn’t believe me when I told them I couldn’t afford things. “Beautiful necklace, 20 dollars”. To most tourists, that’s nothing. To many Asians, and me, $20 is a lot of money. It doesn’t sound like it, but when I convert it to VND or RMB, my first thought was usually, “Are you crazy? I’m not paying that!” Most of my hotel rooms didn’t even cost $20 a night, and they were nice rooms! I suppose this pricing is helpful to most American tourists, but I didn’t encounter many of those; most were from Europe, China, New Zealand, or Australia. Still, it shows how pervasive our currency is, and our language. Nearly every person I encountered spoke English.
After 3 days in Hoi An, I left to spend a night in DaNang. Hoi An is so small it has no airport or train station, so you have to fly in to nearby DaNang, the 3rd largest city in Vietnam, and from there it’s nearly an hour’s drive to Hoi An. (However, even in a private car, the trip was only about $11.) I had a 6 am flight back to Hanoi Wednesday morning, so I thought it would be more relaxing to go back to DaNang around noon on Tuesday and spend the night there, instead of trying to get back from Hoi An so early Wednesday morning. It worked out well. My hotel was only a ten-minute drive from the DaNang airport and I was surprised to find it was only a five-minute walk to the beach. I got some lunch at a seafood restaurant (incidentally, this is the only time in my life I’ve ever gotten sick of seafood-I think I ate it for every meal in some form) and then spent a couple hours walking up and down. I covered every inch of me I could reach in sunscreen, rubbing it in to my skin, then added another layer on top so I looked like a mime. I added a hat, some sunglasses, and still got burned. Not as bad as I usually do though. The sand was actually sparkling with some sort of gold mineral mixed with black, and there were tide pools everywhere, some up to my knees, and light was reflecting everywhere. It was a beautiful day, and the beach was relatively quiet. I’m sure it’s more crowded on the weekend, and in a few more years it will be unbearable touristy, as seems to be the trend in Asia currently. For now though, it’s perfect.
I had one more night in Hanoi before flying back to Beijing Thursday. I spent most of the afternoon wandering around the streets of the Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem Lake again, enjoying the sights. I found a rooftop cafe overlooking the lake and the busy central square and was kind of mesmerized by the flow of traffic. Everybody just keeps moving at their same pace, dancing around each other. There are so many motorbikes! The government taxes cars between 100% and 200% person, so most people use bikes. I have seen a mom and grandma with four kids on a bike, two guys carrying a 6’x4′ framed mirror on a bike while going down the highway around 55mph, fruit vendors with baskets and bundles piled up on the seat behind them. I’m constantly amazed by the innovations people come up with.
I don’t have much to say, but I have a ton of pictures. Halong Bay has been on my travel list for years so I had to see it this trip. It was my one splurge-I booked an overnight cruise from Hanoi. They pick everyone up in a van, then it’s about a four-hour drive to Halong Bay. It rained off and on during the drive but the views were beautiful. All along the highway were fields and fields of rice, with farmers wading through them picking the plants, some still using oxen, others with tractors that had sort of metal or wood frame wheels to roll through the mud.
We got on our boat around noon and checked in to our cabins. There were 15 people total: 5 guys from India who kept mostly to themselves, a family of 4 from Australia, a father and daughter from Russia, and another dad from Belgium with his teenage son and daughter. It was an interesting group, and a fairly small boat; we saw others much larger. The main area of the bay was super crowded; the tender boats could barely find a place to dock to pick everyone up. But once we got on the boat we headed to Bai Tu Long Bay-part of the Halong Bay heritage area, but less crowded. It was raining most of the first day but the water was pretty calm; all the little islands seem to break up any waves. I liked seeing them in the rain, actually, it was misty and looked so mysterious.
The cliffs rise straight out of the sea, with no natural beaches I could see, but one of the larger islands had a man-made beach built for the tours to dock. From there, we could climb up to a large cave in the side of the rock and explore.
In the evening, we anchored to have dinner and spend the night. The food was delicious; every kind of seafood in the area-shrimp cocktail, squid, stuffed crabs, oysters, steamed fish, lots of vegetables, rice, and pumpkin soup, which seams to be popular here. They also had a cooking demonstration where everyone got to make some traditional spring rolls. After dinner, we had the opportunity to try squid fishing. Fortunately no one caught anything. It rained more overnight but the bay still stayed pretty calm and the cabins were really comfortable so I slept well.
The next morning we left bright and early and arrived at this little floating fishing village just after breakfast. The houses were built on pontoon-type platforms and linked by docks. Some were houseboats. I was surprised to see how many people had dogs or cats with them, just floating along. The cruise companies had arranged for some of the local fishermen to row tourists around the islands in rowboats to see the village and cliffs, so we anchored there and got into smaller boats. It was a beautiful morning to be out: finally got a bit of sun!
It was a bit sad to see though. Our guide was telling us how these fishermen had lived in their floating villages for generations, even had floating schools for the children. It was the only way of life they knew. But when the bay was declared a world heritage site the government wanted to clean up the bay and relocated them to the mainland. Many couldn’t read or write and couldn’t find jobs. They still come back to fish and the government employs some to clean up trash on the bay and has subsidized other employment, like the pearl farm we visited. Still, this trip has illustrated a lot of the problems caused by overtourism. I have read several articles lately about this problem that is affecting different places around the world, but in Vietnam I have seen it first hand. Hoi An, where I am now, is overrun with tourists, and it’s clear that the lives of the local people have been changed, even in the past few years.
I arrived back in Hanoi by the late afternoon and had a bit of time for some shopping and sightseeing in the evening. The lake at night is even more beautiful:
My flight the next day was scheduled at 6pm (and ended up being delayed until 8pm) so I had the morning and early afternoon to explore. I took one of the hop-on-hop-off tours buses to see as much as possible; this one let you choose the duration, which was nice, since they had a 4-hour option and I had 4 hours left in Hanoi. It rained a lot of the time but I still sat outside on the top deck with my umbrella. (I thought I was the only crazy one, till we drove past West Lake and I noticed people still swimming in the rain!) It was a good way to see some of the city outside the old quarter.
So far I have had spectacular luck dodging the weather this trip (knock on wood). I was a bit nervous yesterday when I got to BCIA and saw this:Flights were being cancelled and delayed all around me. It had been raining most of the day in Beijing and there were thunderstorms in Guangzhou where I had a layover. But by some miracle my plane actually left on time and landed in Guangzhou early. I was exhausted and dazed at that point and sort of stumbled through immigration and found a coffee shop to sit and zone out in until my next flight. We were a bit late taking off but not too bad, and from the plane I could see the thunderstorms out the window. It was surreal. It was pitch black outside, but when lightning lit up the sky I could see black clouds below us, and here and there patches of city lights shone through, but we were above the rain. In the distance, the lightening danced on the horizon and lit up the mountains, bright as daylight. I wish I could paint things the way I see them; some things can’t be put into words.
It wasn’t raining when I landed in Hanoi and I breezed through immigration with no waiting, no lines (it was after midnight), got a cab immediately and went straight to my hotel, although it was quite a drive from the airport. The guy checking me in was really nice and it’s a small hotel so there was not much of a check in process. He photocopied my passport, gave me a key, and I believe I was asleep within an hour of the time I landed at the airport. My room is so cute:
It was pouring rain when I woke up and ate breakfast, stopped just before I went out to explore, and started raining again just after I came inside to rest this afternoon. I grabbed my umbrella when I went out later to get dinner, but there wasn’t a single drop. I came back to my room, and now it’s raining again. I actually don’t mind getting rained on, but this is nice too!
I’m staying in the Old Quarter of Hanoi and my hotel is about a 2 minute walk from Hoem Kiem lake, which is lovely. I walked all around it and explored a bunch of streets and shops.
My favorite place was The Note. It’s a three-story coffee shop, and every inch of it, walls, chairs, tables, windows, the air conditioner, even the ceiling, is covered in notes people have left from all over the world. I got some iced Vietnamese coffee (coffee mixed with with sweetened condensed milk), and took it upstairs to enjoy the view of the lake and write my notes. I wandered around a bit reading notes other people have left too, about everything: life, travel, love, secrets, jokes, thank-yous, happy birthdays, apologies. All the notes have little square notes that you can peel the back off when you’re down and stick anywhere you want. The employees were wonderful as well, incredibly friendly. The manager was going to all the tables to chat and encourage people to write anything, asking where they came from. Everyone in there was all smiles.
Tomorrow it is off to Ha Long Bay, hopefully. Today’s tours were cancelled due to the weather on the bay, but maybe my luck will hold…
Sorry, I’ve been AWOL. Things have been crazy lately. I finally got rid of my kids! It was a great day. There’s a couple I’ll miss, but otherwise I’m so glad to be done with this group of children, and this group of parents. I have a bunch of photos to share though, of graduation and other activities. The last 3 weeks were pretty much just games and toys. My parents are always bringing kids late, pulling them out of school for days or weeks on end; several took off after the graduation ceremony, even though we still had two weeks of school left.
Then I immediately started summer camp the Monday after our last week of school, which really should have been cancelled since I only had 2-3 kids on any given day and they were at wildly different levels. I had two that were nearly 7 and fluent in English and reading, understood everything I said, and two that were barely 4 and spoke next to no English and understood nothing, and some only came half the time. It was frustrating and impossible to plan for them so I basically just babysat and let them do whatever while I cleaned and organized my classroom for next year. We did some science experiments and S.T.E.M. activities every day though. I’m also trying to get everything organized and order supplies for next year, which I am determined will be better. It can’t get much worse.
Other than that, I’ve just been doing a bunch of homework. I have a roughly 30 page paper on American art history to show for it if anyone is having trouble sleeping… Jess and I have also been in the process of moving apartments, and it has been an ordeal. Our lease was up at the end of July and we wanted a bigger place. Fortunately, one of Jess’s coworkers was also moving and his apartment was bigger, closer to both of our jobs (I can bike to work finally! At least, when it’s not 110 degrees and/or pouring rain, as it’s been lately), and not too much more expensive. Rents are rising like crazy in Beijing and this building is in one of the more expensive areas so we really lucked out. I really like the apartment and we’ve got most of our stuff moved in. We had a month between the time we moved in here and the time our old lease expired, so we’ve been moving very gradually, packing suitcases, bringing them over in a cab, emptying them, rinse and repeat. Over and over. You know the scene in Harry Potter where they’re in the bank vault and every time they touch something it multiplies? That was our house. I don’t know how I accumulated so much stuff in three years but it’s got to go! I’m leaving for Vietnam tomorrow and Jess is heading to the States Saturday so everything has to be finished before we leave, so this past weekend was nothing but packing, cleaning, and trying to sell anything remotely valuable to fund our travels. I need to get rid of things anyway. What was I thinking, buying books? You can’t cart piles of books around the world. I knew that, but I bought them anyway. It’s a sickness. We thought we could move everything ourselves in a few trips but a few turned into 8 or 10 or 150, I don’t know, I lost track. And did I mention we now live in a fourth floor walk-up? I think we got more than our fair share of exercise this week. There’s no way I can take all this with me when I leave China, which will absolutely, positively, 1000% be next summer. I swear. That’s all the China I can handle. I believe I’ve said this before but I really mean it this time! It’s a toss up whether my lungs or my sanity will give out first.
Anyway, here are some photos of the new place:
We’ve been exploring the neighborhood this week and found our new favorite restaurant. They have excellent dumplings and everyone is really nice.There’s also one of the best markets in the city-SanYuanLi-just down the street. It’s awesome. They have the best produce and meat, plus a bunch of imported goods that are much cheaper than the actual import stores. It looks small from the outside but inside is huge-like an enormous indoor year-round farmers’ market.
I am going to try to update more regularly this year, especially because it’s my last year (really!) and I feel like there’s lots of things I want to say about China but I just haven’t gotten around to yet. I also want to travel to some more places within China before I leave for good.
For now though, my next trip will be Vietnam. Finally! I’ve been wanting to go forever. Tickets are incredibly cheap right now too, only about $250 roundtrip from Beijing to Hanoi. I leave Beijing Tuesday and have a short layover in Guangzhou, arriving in Hanoi after 11 that night. I’ve got the next day to explore the city, then I booked a tour of Ha Long Bay the next day. Everything I read and everyone I talked to said Ha Long is not to be missed and it’s the one place to splurge so I did. I’m taking an overnight cruise of the bay before returning to Hanoi the next day. Then Saturday I fly to Da Nang, which is the closest city to Hoi An, which doesn’t have an airport. I’m staying in the Old Town area of Hoi An though, to spend a few days exploring. Then it’s back to Hanoi for a day before returning to Beijing. It’s going to be a busy trip for sure. I’m excited; everything looks beautiful. I’ll definitely be posting pictures!
Hi all! Yes, it’s me, I’m alive. I just haven’t been able to blog for the past couple of months because I had to um, get this kitten out of a tree, and then I, uh, fell and broke both my arms, had to spend weeks in the hospital, until it got hit by an earthquake, so I ran, jumped off a cliff and got kidnapped by pirates. Or maybe I’m just insanely busy with work…yeah, that might be it. I’m actually drowning in projects at the moment. I’m going to finish this last year of school if it kills me, but, you know, it very well might. And don’t even get me started on students. They get worse by the day, and unlike last year’s class, I just don’t like most of these kids. I have a couple that I will really miss but otherwise June 30th can not get here fast enough.
I don’t have anything huge to report at the moment. I think I have finally decided to stay in Beijing one more year. I think. But ONLY one more year. Seriously, if I’m not out of China by July 31st 2019, get a rescue team together and come get me. I’m actually kind of tired of Beijing at the moment; I feel like there’s nothing new to see or do here. I still want to see other places in China and Asia though, and save up some money, so I’m going to try to survive one more year.
Last weekend we had a 4-day holiday for Chinese Labor Day, so I went to Busan for a few days. On the one hand, I’ve already been there twice and I felt like I should go explore somewhere new, but on the other-I just love this city. It’s my happy place-so peaceful and pretty and friendly, plus I really just wanted to hang out on the beach and do nothing for a change. Besides, it’s nice to go someplace a little familiar. I got in late since I left after work Friday, and I didn’t have to worry about figuring out how to navigate a new city. I just went straight to the subway and used the change I saved from my last trip to buy a ticket. I already know all the streets around the Haeundae Beach area, and it was really easy to walk around.
The weather was perfect-warm and sunny, with a nice cool breeze. The water was chilly but not too cold to walk around barefoot in the surf. On Saturday, I spent several hours working on homework in the morning, then went out, had some excellent seafood, read my book, wrote in my journal, and sat on the beach for a while people-watching. It was actually pretty busy for being so early in the season. There was a little boy, probably not even 2 yet, a few yards down, who would toddle up to the waves, just inching closer and closer, but as soon as the water touched his toes, he would run back up the beach screaming “Mama!” He must have done it six or seven times. An older girl, probably 5 or 6, was fascinated by the pigeons pecking around in the sand. She would run up to one group and they would take off, so she’d run over to another group and they’d take off flying and she would just crack up laughing. She did this all up and down the beach until she scared one flock off birds into flying straight at a group of teenage girls taking selfies by the water and her mom dragged her off. (She did them a favor, really, they looked like idiots.) Another woman next to me spread out her towel, sat down, and pulled out a book. Oh, hey, another reader, nice to see people still do that. Nope. She next pulled out her phone and proceeded to take pictures of the book open on her lap. Then, apparently afraid that wouldn’t be convincing enough, she brought out a selfie stick so she could get a picture of her face looking down at the book. She sat there posing for 30 minutes and the only time she actually looked at the book was when she clicked the shutter. This is really getting out of hand, people. Can we not even spend a half hour on the beach without phones?
Sunday, I also spent several hours doing homework in the morning, then finally got out in the mid-afternoon to explore Dongbaek Island, which, interestingly, is not an island. It was once upon a time but now buildup of sand and silt from streams have connected it to the mainland. You can take the subway to Dongbaek, near the Westin, and then there’s a beautiful walking path that goes all around the perimeter of the island and turns into a boardwalk on the far side with steps going down to the rocky shore. From there you can keep walking and end up back on Haeundae Beach, where I did some more beach-sitting and people-watching before strolling down the seafood street for dinner. Most of the places on this street have a set menu. You just pick what kind of fish you want and they’ll pull it out of a tank out front and bring it with all the accompaniments.
Lastly, I’ll just leave you with a fun fact I learned over the weekend. So the Airbnb I stayed at this time was an older, local building. Saturday morning I woke up to some guy’s voice-but it was inside the apartment. I was super groggy since I hadn’t gotten in till 1am the night before, and it took a minute to realize the voice was coming from the ceiling, but I couldn’t figure out how, or what it was saying because the only word of Korean I understood was gamsahamnida (thank you). Then I saw that there was a metal square intercom up above the bed. By the time I was fully awake it had stopped and nothing seemed to be happening so I was just like, that’s weird (and creepy) but I was too tired to care. Then it came on again later that night and I was like “What the hell is this?”! So I started googling “voice in ceiling of Korean apartments”. Apparently I’m not the only one who’s had this problem. I stumbled onto a couple of really funny blogs that explained it. All old apartments have these public-service warning systems, that have now evolved to include notices from building managers (like stop playing music late at night, don’t park there), and even advertisements in some areas. Did I mention it’s super-creepy? If I lived in one I’d have to take a page out of this lady’s book and kill the voices.
Last stop! I really enjoyed Jodhpur and wouldn’t have minded a few more days there, but Udaipur was beautiful as well. I’d heard it was a nice drive between the two cities so we booked a private car tour that stopped at the Ranakpur temples about halfway in between. Jess and I were too broke to actually pay the entrance fee (more on this later; we had some funny stories) but we walked around them to stretch our legs before getting back in the car. I don’t have any photos because in many places cameras weren’t allowed, and in others there’s a fee to bring a camera into the site that I was tired of paying. But we got a lot of photos of other places we stopped. It was a fun road trip. Just beware, “private tour” means “let me stop at all my friends’ places so they can talk you into buying things you don’t need and can’t afford”. Spoiler: I bought a lot of things I didn’t need and couldn’t afford. Oh, well, how many times do you get to go to India?
Our Airbnb was about 10-15 km outside the city, a bit farther than expected, but Udaipur was a bit cheaper than Jodhpur. Our hosts called Uber for us and it only cost about 160 rupees to get into the center of town (about $2.50). We spent our first day mostly walking around the city:
We hear about water shortages and problems with clean drinking water around the world but still, until you’re faced with the reality of it it’s hard to connect. It’s easy to take things for granted when you’ve always been able to shower or run the sink water to wash dishes or get a drink. Even in Beijing I don’t think about it too much. You can’t drink the tap water there but it’s easy to have bottled water delivered and we use the water for everything else. But many places in India still rely on wells and old-fashioned water pumps. Several times I would see people on a street corner using the communal water pump to fill buckets and carry them home for daily use. In Udaipur, people would swim, bathe, and wash their clothes in the lake. It’s a sobering sight.
The next morning I slept in and was awakened to this wedding procession. We had a small balcony we could watch from and it was really cool to see. My favorite part though, was this random camel that was walking around. We saw he had a pen across the street from our apartment but the gate was open and he just seemed to roam around the neighborhood. He gets his own slideshow:
Afterwards, we got a cab to see Fateh Sagar lake nearby, then went into Udaipur and found Gulab Bagh park. I had just noticed there was a park on Google maps and we had time to kill so we thought we’d check it out, but weren’t sure what to expect. It was huge, with a gorgeous rose garden-there were dozens of different varieties, along with other flowers.
My favorite encounter of the day, however, was with this cow. She was enormous! We were pretty used to cows at this point and didn’t pay much attention to her as we passed. A little ways down the street we stopped to window shop at this jewelry store. I noticed they did ear piercing and was debating whether to try it when Jess jumped up on the doorstep and told me to look out. I turned around and found myself face to face with this:
I wasn’t too concerned as the cows all seemed pretty harmless. I just jumped up on the doorstep to get out of the way, thinking she’d pass us and mosey on down the road. Instead she swung her head around and headbutted me on the hip. We ran into the jewelry shop and I tried to close the door as she seemed to be following us in. The shopkeeper was sitting just inside and got up, laughing at us, to get a jar from the corner. Apparently his wife makes homemade treats for the cows on the street. This girl was just stopping by for her afternoon snack when we got in her way! The shopkeeper was friendly though so we ended up looking around and I got my ear pierced after all, figuring that clearly the cow was a sign from some Hindu deity that I was supposed to.
That evening we found this quiet rooftop bar with a great view of the lake to watch the sunset.
We decided to check out Bagore Ki Haveli the next day, a former palace turned into a museum. It was a bit run-down and mostly deserted, which was nice as we got to explore and take photos on our own without a lot of crowds. I liked the second floor women’s quarters, with all the hangings, stained glass windows, mosaics, jewelry boxes and artifacts. They also have a collection of different styles of turbans, including one that weighed more than 30 kilos!
The elephant was clearly not an ordinary sight, even for locals. They seemed as excited as me and Jess. A crowd was all around her taking pictures, a lady next to me offered her a handful of hay, the coconut water vendor was feeding her coconuts, one guy pumped some water from a pump near the street so she could drink and splash and spray water around. It was so fun to see!
Our last day in Udaipur we got up early and took the boat tour of Lake Pichola, which stops at the island palace of Jag Mandir. There are actually two islands with palaces in the middle of the lake, but the Lake Palace has been converted to a hotel and is open only to guests, so Jag Mandir is the only one open to the public. It was a lovely and peaceful way to spend a morning. A bit of trivia-Jag Mandir and other parts of Udaipur were the setting for the 1983 James Bond movie Octopussy. The whole town is plastered in original movie posters advertising nightly viewings of the movie at seemingly every bar and restaurant. We thought we’d try to see it while we were there, but after checking at a few different places, finally realized they quit showing the movie a while ago and kept the posters up for bragging rights.
That afternoon we got on our train back to Delhi around 5pm, which meant arriving around 5am, which is basically the middle of the night. We quickly determined that middle of the night in Delhi is not where we wanted to be. Nothing would be open for hours and even if there had been somewhere to go we had no money, so we decided our best bet would be to take our last 1000 rupees and take the airport express subway to Indira Ghandi International to wait for our flight. At 12:05 am the next day. That’s eighteen hours in the airport if you’re counting.
We got off the subway (the subway station is connected to the airport and has its own shops and food places), got some coffee, and then just found a spot on the floor to sit and read and nap for a few hours. Around noon we tried to go into the airport but they wouldn’t let us in until 6 hours before our flight. The guard directed us to a passenger lounge to wait but when we went in we saw a sign behind the desk that looked like it said 100 rupees per person for three hours. We had a lot of hours left and barely enough money to cover snacks and drinks for the day, so we went and sat outside for a while, then went back to nap in the subway. Note: it was actually a very nice subway station, and we were not the only ones doing this. Although we were definitely the only foreign women which certainly got us some stares. At one point this well-dressed older man stopped near us. Jess was asleep under a scarf and I was reading my book. He looked down at us all concerned and asked “Is there a problem?”. No, no problem, we said, just waiting till our flight later. “Why don’t you go to a hotel?” In truth, we couldn’t afford it but we just told him we had just arrived in Delhi that morning. “Okay, but you know, it looks a bit…odd.” Yes, yes, we do, thanks.
I’m sure he was being helpful and we mostly just found it funny at that point. I hadn’t gotten paid yet before we left Beijing so I had roughly USD $200 in cash when we arrived in India, and that only because of a payday loan courtesy of my parents-by the way, thanks again Mom and Dad 🙂 My school is fairly…flexible with payments. My contract states I get paid on the 15th of each month but in reality I’ve gotten paid anywhere between the 6th and the 22nd before. Normally we get paid before holidays though, which is what I had been counting on. I got paid after we arrived in India but it was pointless because my Chinese debit card only works in China so I couldn’t access it. I thought I could outsmart the system and transferred money from my Chinese bank to Paypal, so I could then withdraw it to my US debit card and use that to get cash. Paypal however, decided to hold my money hostage for the better part of two weeks because they suck, so the transfer didn’t go through until the day I arrived back in Beijing. Jess was not much better off than me, so by the end of our trip we could not stop laughing at ourselves and how broke we were. Jess actually turned down coffee (which as anyone who knows her could tell you, she desperately needs) because it was too expensive. The coffee in question was 100 rupees, or about 10RMB. Coffee in Beijing is between 25-40RMB so that was actually extremely cheap, we just couldn’t afford it. (I convert everything to RMB since that’s how I get paid so I no longer think in dollars, but the coffee would have been about USD $1.50.) Most of the really expensive souvenirs we wanted were in actuality $4-$30. The Ranakpur temples we couldn’t afford to enter cost about $3 per person. We sat on a bench outside them and laughed at ourselves for about 20 minutes when we realized that.
The kicker was when, after an afternoon of pacing from place to place, we finally decided to “splurge” on the passenger lounge (which was also about USD $1.50) and just eat chips till we got on the plane. After some back and forth with the woman at the desk, we realized that the 100 rupees per 3 hours sign we had seen earlier actually applied to parking; the lounge was in fact, free. Yep, we spent 12 hours on the floor of the subway station before we figured that out, people. In our defense, we were already sleep-deprived. Anyway, we managed to survive until our midnight flight back to Guangzhou, where we had a 5 hour layover but were fortunately able to access our Chinese money at last.
I tell this story for all the people wondering how I have money to travel. Guys, I don’t have money; I have priorities. Somehow it just works out.